No matter the Memorial Day weather, the grill makes an appearance. The menu shifts as the clouds roll in — quick-cooking, fully-cooked brats when downpours happen, perfectly moist, bone-in pork chops in the sunshine.

Today’s lean pork may be good for our waistlines, but tricky for grillers. The challenge is to reap the benefits of the grill’s flavorful, smoky, dry heat yet retain moisture in the lean meat.

It’s best to brine large cuts of pork, such as loin roasts and shoulder, before grilling low and slow. A brine adds moisture without using a lot of acid, but requires a lot of time. For chops, I prefer a wet marinade to add moisture and flavor in a shorter time.

We like them all, but some chops are easier to cook. In our experience, it is best to leave the thick (sometimes called “double” chops) to the restaurants to cook. For home cooks, I prefer the stunning center-cut pork chops with frenched bones available at Trader Joe’s and the more accessible bone-in pork rib chops at most supermarkets. Boneless center-cut chops work, too, but they are just less dramatic-looking. Choose chops about an inch thick for the best marinade flavor penetration, uniform cooking, and portion control.

Remember that today’s lean pork shouldn’t be cooked to the well-done stage, period. There’s no need. Anything that might cause illness is killed at 137 degrees, so cut your timing way down. Remove chops from the grill when they register 140 to 145 degrees when an instant-read thermometer is inserted in the thickness area of the chop (you’ll have to insert the thermometer horizontally with a 1-inch thick chop so it penetrates properly). Then let the chops rest on the serving platter, tented with foil, for about 10 minutes. The internal temperature will rise a few degrees, yielding perfectly moist pork with just a hint of pink.

Serve the chops with crispy polenta seasoned with black pepper and parmesan and topped with a fresh tomato and mozzarella salad. Then take in the compliments — the grilling season is off to a brilliant start.

Mustard-Grilled Pork Chops with Crispy Polenta

Makes 6 servings

6 frenched, bone-in, center-cut pork loin chops, each about 1 inch thick and weighing 8 to 10 ounces, about 4 1/2 pounds total

1/4 cup olive oil

3 tablespoons red wine vinegar

1 1/2 tablespoons whole grain Dijon mustard

2 cloves garlic, crushed

2 teaspoons Italian seasoning

1/2 teaspoon coarse salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

Crispy black pepper polenta, see recipe

Parsley sprigs, lemon wedges for garnish

1. Pat chops dry. Mix oil, vinegar, mustard, garlic, seasoning, salt, pepper and red pepper in the bottom of a large shallow container. Add chops and turn to coat all sides with marinade. Cover and refrigerate for several hours (or up to 8 hours).

2. Prepare the polenta.

3. Prepare a charcoal grill and let coals heat until covered in gray ash. Or, preheat a gas grill to medium-high. Meanwhile, let chops come to room temperature, about 20 minutes.

4. Grill the chops, with the marinade that clings to them, directly over the heat source for 6 minutes; then flip and finish grilling until nearly firm when pressed, 4 to 5 more minutes.

5. To serve, put a piece of crisp polenta on each serving plate. Top with mozzarella mixture. Add a pork chop to the plate. Garnish with parsley and lemon wedges.

Crispy Black Pepper Polenta with Sun-Dried Tomatoes and Mozzarella

Makes 6 to 8 servings

Vegetable oil for pan

6 cups chicken or vegetable broth

Salt

2 cups quick-cooking yellow corn polenta (such as Bob’s Red Mill)

1/4 cup (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature

1 clove garlic, crushed

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 cup (2 1/2 ounces) shredded or 1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese

1/2 cup julienne strips sun-dried tomatoes packed in oil, about 1/2 an 8-ounce jar

8 ounces mini fresh mozzarella pearls, drained, about 1 cup

1 cup San Marzano tomatoes or grape tomatoes, sliced 1/4-inch thick rounds

4 green onions, trimmed, thinly sliced

Chopped fresh basil, parsley or cilantro for garnish

1. Generously oil the bottom and sides of a 15-by-10-inch rimmed baking sheet.

2. Heat broth to boil in a large, deep saucepan over high heat. Season with salt to taste (the amount will depend on the saltiness of the broth; start with 1/2 teaspoon). Reduce heat to medium-low. Gradually whisk in polenta until smooth (no lumps). Switch to a flat-edged wooden or silicon spoon. Reduce heat to low. Cook, stirring constantly, until mixture is thick enough to coat the back of the spoon, about 10 minutes.

3. Stir butter, garlic and pepper into polenta until butter is melted. Stir in parmesan. Remove from heat. Scrape the mixture out onto the prepared pan and spread in a smooth, evenly thick layer. Let cool. Refrigerate until firm, about 1 hour. Mixture can be made one day in advance and refrigerated well-covered.

4. Shortly before serving, working over a small bowl, snip sun-dried tomato strips with scissors into 1/2-inch pieces. Stir in mozzarella pieces, fresh tomatoes and green onions. Season to taste with salt and black pepper. Let sit at room temperature while you crisp the polenta.

5. Heat oven to 200 degrees. To serve, heat a large nonstick skillet over medium heat until a drop of water sizzles on contact. Add a thin film of vegetable oil. Cut polenta into 8 pieces. Lay the pieces into the hot pan in a single, uncrowded layer. Cook over medium heat, until bottoms are golden and crisp, about 3 minutes. Gently flip to brown and crisp the second side. Remove to a plate and keep warm in the oven while you crisp the other polenta pieces.

6. Serve hot topped with mozzarella mixture. Garnish with basil.

(JeanMarie Brownson is a James Beard Award-winning author and the recipient of the IACP Cookbook Award for her latest cookbook, “Dinner at Home.” JeanMarie, a chef and authority on home cooking, Mexican cooking and specialty food, is one of the founding partners of Frontera Foods. She co-authored three cookbooks with chef Rick Bayless, including “Mexico: One Plate at a Time.” JeanMarie has enjoyed developing recipes and writing about food, travel and dining for more than four decades.)

©2025 JeanMarie Brownson. Distributed by Tribune Content Agency, LLC.